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Making Loops on Sinktips

Posted on September 28 2012

Sinktip Knots
Good thing we don’t run photography lodges.

A second installation in our sinktip strategies novella, here’s a looping method that began as what Alaska West guide Jeff Hickman dubbed a ‘bush fix,’ and has since become one of the two main ways we’re custom building on-the-river sinktips to suit the current conditions.

First off, get yourself about 40 feet of Rio’s T-whatever. It’s all good, as are Airflo’s 20’ Custom Cut Sinktips, which might be even better given the placement of welded loops on each end of the 20-foot chunk. Put either in a baggie, inside your fishing kit. That way, it’s ready when you are.

Once on the river, determine the sinktip length based on your wingspan. We’re serious here. If you’re about 6’ tall, stringing out a section between your outstretched arms should get you roughly 6’ of T-whatever. Do this twice and you have a 12’ tip, a decent place to start. Add about 3 inches on each end to compensate for the loop and cut with your nipper.

Then, grab your nailknot tool. On one end, double the sinktip back on itself 3 inches. With 20-lb Maxima, place one nailknot at the sinktip’s end, then another toward the top of this new loop. You want the final homemade loop to mimic the size of a normal welded loop, about ½ an inch. Do this on the other end, as well (if using Rio material, as Airflo’s Custom Cut will already have a welded loop on one end).

From there, use Aquaseal, Loon’s UV Knot-Sense, Zap-a-Gap or in a pinch, some nailpolish to lock down the nailknots. In fact, with colored nail polish, you can even color code the loops for quick reference when carrying multiple sections of T-11, T-14 and T-17. (We’re even told Rajeff Sports might have some T-24 laying around, but at this point, that’s just a wild, very heavy rumor.)

Then, loop it on and go fishing – without fear, as we’ve never had this system fail.

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